The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter

The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Vintage illustration: Soda Men at work. Published in Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894.

Soda Men at work. Artist’s rendition, published in Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894.

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Victorian-era Soda Fountain owners needed a lot of know-how! Business sense, sure. That meant advertising! Once through the door, savvy businessmen worked to make regulars of those customers. From where the patrons sat, all must be clean and attractive, including the attendants. Those soda men put on a show for patrons, smartly dressed in white buttoned-up coats.

Behind the Soda Fountain Counter, so much more had to happen! Someone had to keep the expensive apparatus operating efficiently. That meant proper cleaning. And “recharging” the fountain. Beyond the mechanics, recipes mattered. Ice and cream, key components of soda fountain operation, were perishable. Fountain owners refrigerated supplies and took receipt of regular shipments.

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Victorian patrons wait for their soda fountain drinks, and sip on bar stools. With the sheer number of items on the dirnk menu, and the "show" of men in white coats preparing beverage orders, the Victorian soda fountain strongly resembles a bar or saloon. Vintage image from within Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, first edition, 1890.

Patrons wait for their soda fountain drinks, and sip on bar stools. With the sheer number of items on the drink menu, and the “show” of men in white coats preparing beverage orders, the Victorian soda fountain strongly resembles a bar or saloon–and some of the drinks did include a small to moderate amount of alcohol. Image: from within Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, first edition published in 1890; third edition (from whence this image came), published 1894.

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Victorian Soda Fountain: DRUGGIST or BAKERY

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From the numerous advertisements I located in vintage newspapers, it seems American soda fountains were an important part of the bakery’s and/or the druggist (pharmacy)’s business. Vintage publications indicate soda fountain generated tremendous profit margins during summer months. To ensure quality ingredients, abundant ice (though expensive), and superb customer service would ensure the owner’s livelihood.

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Evidently Doc. Talbott, of Lawrence, Kansas, understood the importance of advertising.

I’ve shown Soda Fountains (and their advertisements) in well-established cities like Nashville, Hartford, and New York. But did the American West have the luxury of soda fountains? Absolutely! The following series of advertisements (a common format, with one short ad after another, all for the same business) comes from The Daily Kansas Tribune of Lawrence, Kansas, on July 20, 1869.

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Sopda Fountain Advertisements published in The Daily Kansas Tribune of Lawrence, Kansas, July 20, 1869.

Soda Fountain Advertisements published in The Daily Kansas Tribune of Lawrence, Kansas on July 20, 1869.

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By the 1890s, the soda business was thriving!

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GET ‘EM THROUGH THE DOOR, THEN KEEP THEIR BUSINESS

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FIRST IMPRESSIONS

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First impressions are everything! Keep your Soda Fountain–with lots of marble and glass–sparkling clean. Set up shop the best way to facilitate comfort and ease… and by all means, ensure your Soda Men (notice the instruction is always for men–not boys, and not women of any age) present themselves with excellent hygiene and a clean, white linen jacket.

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Vintage Illustration of woman with a friendly (and flirtatious?) soda fountain clerk. Titled "Attentive Clerks." Published in The Spatula Soda Water Guide.

Attentive Clerks. The Spatula Soda Water Guide.

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DON’TS FOR DISPENSERS.

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Don’t have an excuse for being out of anything.

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Don’t let syrups stand for more than a week without cleaning cans, and some flavors even oftener.

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Don’t put shaved ice in a cream soda.

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Don’t shake soda in shaker: stir it when mixing.

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Don’t let your feet get wet.

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Don’t serve the last drop of syrup in the can.

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Don’t try to wait on every customer at once.

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Don’t hesitate about changing a drink that does not suit.

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Don’t leave your white coats unbuttoned unless wearing a white vest.

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Don’t lean on the counter.

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Don’t refuse to make a drink in any way a customer may desire you to. You get his trade and your price for the drink even if you don’t like his way. He drinks it, not you.

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Don’t converse with customers or friends while others are waiting to be served.

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Don’t let the first impression you make be any but a good one.

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~ The Spatula Soda Water Guide, 1901, p. 31.

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QUALITY SODAS!

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Top ways to ensure a quality Victorian Soda: Use ALL the ice, and almost always serve with cream.

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Ultimately, the message is about quality. Use excellent quality crushed fruits and real fruit juice whenever possible.

Smart businessmen knew to charge the right amount. People have always been willing, it seems, to pay for quality.

Next advice tidbit? Provide customers with an easy-t0-read menu.

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LIST OF DRINKS.

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A good plan to avoid answering innumerable questions as to what drinks you serve, and the price of same, is to make out a complete list giving price of each drink, and have it printed in large type on a neat price of heavy card board, which should be suspended directly over the dispensing counter in such a position that the customer can not help seeing and reading it.

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~ Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, pp 31-32.

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Promote and build your business by educating your trade (clientele) to drink something besides ice cream sodas…

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. from Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 3rd Ed, 1894: "One drink alone I will mention here as having helped very materially to build up my trade and establish our reputation in Chicago, and that is Saxe's Blood Orange Phosphate, a simple drink, quickly served, and as quickly drank, and affording a larger per cent of profit at five cents a glass, than ice cream soda at ten cents.... educate your trade to drink something else besides ice cream soda, unless you want to make an ice cream parlor of your store."

Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, pp 14-15, including message from Saxe’s successful business: He used branded “Saxe’s Blood Orange Phosphate” to build his trade (clientele). “Teach your trade customers to drink something else besides ice cream soda unless you want to make an ice cream parlor of your store.”

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. from Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 3rd Ed, 1894: "No. 147, Saxe's Orange Phosphate, The Great an donly true Orange Phosphate made." Recipe calls for plain soda, Saxe's Blood Orange Syrup, and Acid Phosphate.

Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, p 85. Saxe’s Blood Orange Phosphate receipt.

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Draw Ice Cream Soda Correctly

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Who knew? Apparently how one draws a soda water is as important what goes in the soda.

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. From Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 3rd Edition, 1894. "How to Draw a Glass of Ice Cream Soda: Very few dispensers know how to draw a glass of ice cream soda properly.... the usual method is syrup first, ice cream next, then a little wind and water, that's all. This makes a very unsatisfactory drink, as it is not properly mixed, and cannot be properly mixed when served in this manner, unless you use a spoon and make mush of it.... I always teach my soda men to draw the syrup first, then turn on the fine soda stream a moment, then the coarse, and again the fine till the glass is about one-half full, and the syrup is thoroughly mixed with the water, then drop in the ice cream, and top off with the fine stream of soda. In this way you have a glass of soda thoroughly mixed, with the ice cream in the center, floating around, and not adhering ot the sides of the glass."

How to Draw glass of ice cream soda. Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, pp 21-22.

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SERVING ICE CREAM SODA.

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My experience leads me to believe that no one comes to your counter who knows so well when he has been properly served, as does the lover of an ice cream soda.

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When we find as we do, in some places out of town, that the syrup is to be found largely at the bottom of the glass, and generally far too much of it, making the first taste of the drink very much like plain soda, and the last so sweet and sickish that one can hardly drink it; is it any wonder that the customer is dissatisfied?

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Never let this be said of a drink you serve.

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Use good materials, and then by following these directions you will in a short time with a reasonable amount of practice become proficient.

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The finest glass that can be used is a 14 1-2 oz. thin soda glass. We now draw one ounce of syrup, or if it be a fruit flavor one-half the amount will be sufficient, into the glass. Then with the coarse stream we draw the glass about one-fourth full of soda, and with the fine stream mix the soda thoroughly. Your glass is then about one-half full. Now add your ice cream, and where fruits are used add them at the same time, then fill the glass nearly full with soda and syrup as well as possible, taking care not to cut the ice cream any more than is necessary.

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It is impossible to lay down any set rule as to the amount of syrup to be used, one must study the wants of a customer; but as a general thing, the quantity given above will be found correct. Ladies generally like things sweeter than the gentlemen. Try and find out what each of your customers like, and then always see that they have it.

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Ice cream may be served with any flavor desired, though some are more preferable than others.

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~ The Spatula Soda Water Guide, 1901, p. 54.

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. From Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 3rd Edition, 1894. "No. 13. How to Draw a Glass of Soda." Includes liberal allowance of cream. "Give them cream anyway, unless they request you not to, for as a rule it adds 50 per cent to the quality of the drink. Even at 5 cents a glass you can well afford to give good cream and draw a solid drink. I am speaking of the old reliable flavors, of course, and of Sweet Cream. Not Ice Cream."

How to Draw Glass of Soda. Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, p 21.

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Despite the heat (and lack of electricity), patrons expected COLD sodas. How did soda fountain proprietors manage that? (see patent images in my most recent blog article: Victorian-era Soda Fountains)

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. From Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 3rd Edition, 1894. "How to Keep Soda Cold: In putting ice on the coolers crush it ve(r)y fine for the first and second layers, and after that fill up with pieces about the size of a hen's egg or a little larger, covering same with a piece of heavy cloth or bagging, which will help to keep the ice from melting. If the ice is packed closely around your pipes and coils, and the cooler is kept full all day, you ought not to have any complaints about your soda not being cold enough. Occasionally you will find a man who will compalin and say your soda is warm, but ten chances to one he would compalin if you put in shaved ice, complain of its being too cold."

Keep Sodas Cold: Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, p 26.

Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. From Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 3rd Edition, 1894. "How to Keep Soda Cold." If your apparatus can't keep up with your trade, buy a larger device meant for the quantity of soda.

Keep Sodas Cold. Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, p 27.

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FORMULAS, RECIPES, AND METHODS

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RECHARGING THE FOUNTAIN

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Vintage Advertisement contained in The Spatual Soda Water Guide (Back Matter, 1901), for New Era Carbonator: automatic and continuous in operation, giving a constant supply of carbonated water of the highest possible grade, and of an even and unfirom carbination."

New Era Soda Carbonator, advertised in The Spatula Soda Water Guide, 1901. Back Matter.

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Soda Fountain Drinks: With Alcohol

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Alchol in soda! From Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 1894.

Alcohol in soda! Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, p 23.

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Alcoholic frozen punches from The Spatula Soda Water Guide, 1901.

Alcoholic frozen punches. The Spatula Soda Water Guide, 1901.

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RECEIPTS (RECIPES), FORMULAE, METHODS

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Recipes for Red Color for Syrup, Soda Foam, and Simple Syrup. Contained in Ribgy's Reliable Candy Teacher and Soda and Ice Cream Formulas, 1909.

Red Color for syrup, Simple Syrup, and Soda Foam. Rigby’s Reliable Candy Teacher and Soda and Ice Cream Formulas, 1909, p 151-152.

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Kristin Holt | The Soda Fountain: Behind the Counter. Lemon Ice recipe, containing Cox's GElatine, lemons, sugar, fruit acid, water, etc. Frozen in Ice Cream Freezer. Published in Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Disepsners, 1894.

Lemon Ice. Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, p 86. Note this recipe calls for Cox’s Gelatine!

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Saxe's New Drinks for 1894: April Blossom and May Bells. Published in Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 1894.

April and May: Saxe’s New Drinks for 1894, Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894, p 94.

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Saxe's New Drinks for 1894: June Tonic and July Bracer. Published in Saxe's New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, 1894.

June and July: Saxe’s new drinks for 1894. Saxe’s New Guide or Hints to Soda Water Dispensers, Third Edition, 1894. June and July’s p. 95.

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Updated March 2022
Copyright © 2017 Kristin Holt LC
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